Radish and Fennel Amazake Ferments

Radish and Fennel Amazake Ferments

 

Mushroom season has come to an end, so I’ve been keeping busy trying my hand at various mold-based fermentation projects. These amazake ferments constitute my first successful step into the world of koji making. Koji (Aspergillus oryzae) has been used to make rice alcohols, vinegars, ferments and amino pastes in China, Japan and Korea for two millennia. Think miso, soy sauce and sake, for starters. 

A koji revolution is underway in fine dining kitchens all across the world, thanks to the efforts of Rich Shih and Jeremy Umansky, co-authors of the new book Koji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation. The two are constantly proving how koji simply enhances everything it touches; and how it’s application can extend infinitely into new directions. Whether you’re making charcuterie or looking to infuse additional layers of complexity into pastries and deserts, koji has its place.

I made my first koji using a water bath, incubating koji spores on a substrate made of locally grown North Carolina rice at 85F for 3 days, with the help of a circulator in a polycarbonate food pan. After three days, the rice was coated in mycelium and smelled intoxicatingly fruity and floral.

Amazake essentially is a cooking wine, made by mixing inoculated koji with starchy substrate and water. Once sufficiently fermented, it can be used in dressings, sauces, and more. I used it to give my ferments a flavor and microbe boost. 

These ferments came out fantastic. For the amazake, I chose earthy and medicinal buckwheat groat for my starchy substrate. I imagined the grassy and heady fennel bulb would provide a nice flavor contrast, plus a hearty crunch that rivals Napa cabbage. The watermelon radish was the biggest flavor bombshell, to me and my kitchen coworker’s surprise. It has a distinct savory “meaty” flavor, and tastes just like salami! (My wife interjects—“Like good salami!”) Who knew. Additionally, the orange peel adds a citrus pop to cut through the sourness of the ferments and the Sichuan peppercorn adds a heady tingle.

I would eat these ferments on their own, as part of a pickle plate, or as I would kimchi, with scallion pancakes and a cold beer.

Author's koji (aspergillus oryzae) growing on North Carolina grown rice.

For the sour amazake:

• 250g inoculated koji
• 250g buckwheat groat, cooked and cooled to 100F
• 1000g lukewarm water 

For the ferments:

• 2 fennel bulbs, chopped into bite-sized pieces
• 4 watermelon radish, sliced thinly on a mandolin
• 1 celeriac root, cleaned and sliced thinly on a mandolin
• The peel of half an orange
• A handful of Sichuan peppercorn
• A splash of amazake, plus more to cover
• Kosher salt equalling 3% of the total weight

To make the sour amazake: Add the koji, buckwheat groat and water to one or two half gallon mason jars. Place a paper towel over the lid with and secure with a rubber band. Let the amazake ferment in a warm place, stirring twice a day, for 2-5 days. When the amazake tastes sufficiently sour, replace the paper towel with a proper lid and store the amazake in the fridge until ready to use.

To make the ferments: In a mixing bowl, toss the vegetables, orange peel and peppercorn with a splash of amazake. Massage salt equalling 3% of the total weight into the vegetables. Transfer everything to a clean half gallon mason jar. Add another splash or two of amazake to ensure that the vegetables are mostly submerged in brine; the vegetables will continue to release liquid. Let ferment at room temperature for 5 days, making sure to gently but firmly press down on the ferments once a day so the carbon dioxide can escape.