Nurungji, Ramp Kimchi, Orange-Braised Daikon, Shallot Confit

It's not that spicy--despite it's volcanic appearance (that is, unless you want it to be).

Nurungji, Ramp Kimchi, Orange-Braised Daikon, Shallot Confit

Serves 6

For the past three weeks, I’ve spent my nose deep in one the world’s most incredible cookbooks, written by one of the world’s most incredible chefs: On Vegetables by Jeremy Fox. There are dozens and dozens of mind-blowing recipes in the front, and likewise, dozens and dozens of larder (i.e. pantry) recipes in the back. This cookbook will unfortunately scare away many, as it can take multiple days, sometimes weeks, to prepare your pantry for his recipes. I, on the other hand, am totally ecstatic about the larder section. By comparison, though I have made just a few his dishes (all wonderful), I have made many larders, including aioli, black garlic, black olive caramel, carrot crumble, onion ash, mushroom conserva, pesto, scratch-made ricotta, strawberry sofrito, shallot confit, pumpkin seed gremolata, ramp kimchi, pickled ramps…

So while it’s been fun executing his recipes, I’ve had an even more memorable time playing with a fridge full of terrific larders. I might be wrong, but I am pretty sure this is how Fox intended his book to be used. Anyhow, that’s how this recipe came about.

Nurungji is Korean-style burnt rice. You don’t have to make it as black as I did, though I like the color contrast with the white sesame seeds. Daikon Braised in Orange Juice is a nifty concept from Fox. It’s sour and bitter and quite pungent. He suggests eating it on its own, though I honestly prefer it when mixed in with my rice. Speaking of color contrast, I love the volcanic look of this dish—golden orange peaking through the black crust, and whatnot.

If you’re not doing it already, I strongly suggest making shallot confit, as it is a fun, flavor-packing versatile ingredient to have on hand. Originally it was my wife’s idea to add the shallot confit to rice. It lends a stewy, roast-y, sweet flavor, and provides a greater depth and purity of flavor than would quickly sautéing shallots à-la-minute (though you may do that if you must). There are endless resources online for teaching you how to make shallot confit, which is why I felt it wasn’t necessary to include a recipe here.

Spread this project over the course of a few days. If you’re starting the kimchi from scratch, it will need a week’s time to ferment. Feel free to substitute a kimchi that is already fermented;  whether that be homemade or store-bought. One-day-old rice is always ideal for fried rice, and that orange-braised daikon will last in the fridge for a handful of days. Take your time; don’t rush. Then you can enjoy having everything come together in the pan, where it’ll transform into something totally new and exciting. 

Ramps are precious; that's why it's nice to either pickle or ferment to stop the time on them!

For the ramp kimchi (makes 3 cups):

• 2 tablespoons rice flour or glutinous rice powder
• 2 cups Korean chili powder
• 1 white onion, cut into 8 wedges
• 1 apple, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
• 2-inch piece of ginger, scraped
• 3 garlic cloves, germ removed
• 3 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1 pound ramp tops, washed

For the orange-braised daikon:

• 1 large daikon radish (2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
• 2 1/2 cups orange juice (preferably freshly juiced, though bottled is OK)
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt

For the nurungji:

• 2 cups of short grain brown rice (white rice is also OK)
• 2 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
• 1/4 cup shallot confit (or 2 shallots, minced)
• Toasted sesame seeds, to garnish
• Poached or fried egg, to garnish (optional)

To make the kimchi: In a small pan, combine the rice flour with 2 cups of water and set to medium heat. Once the mixture comes to a bare simmer, whisk until a paste forms, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar and salt. Remove from the heat and allow the porridge to come to room temperature.

Meanwhile, Add the Korean chili powder, onion, apple, ginger, and garlic to a food processor and pulse to a chunky paste. Add a couple of tablespoons of the porridge to help turn the blades if needed. Combine the paste with the porridge.

Place the ramps in a mixing bowl. Fold in the paste, making sure to coat the ramp leaves evenly and fully. Transfer to mason jars or Tupperware’s; cover and store in a cool, dry place for a week. After a week, store in the fridge for up to 1 year, or more.

To make the orange-braised daikon: In a wide pan, combine the orange juice and the salt. Add the sliced daikon to the pan in a single layer. Set the pan to medium heat and cook until the juice evaporates below the surface of the daikon. Flip the slices, being careful not to damage them. Continue cooking, occasionally spooning the orange juice over the daikon, until the daikon is very tender. Remove from heat and set aside (if you’re making this a day or two in advance, cover and refrigerate for up to a 10 days).

The day before you plan to assemble the dish, cook 2 cups of rice according to the package instructions. Cool, cover and transfer to the fridge until you are ready to assemble. 

Assemble the dish: Heat 2 tablespoons of toasted sesame oil in a skillet over medium high. (If you’re not using shallot confit, add the minced shallot and sauté until fragrant.) Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the shallot confit and 2 tablespoons of kimchi juice cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the daikon and cook for 1 minute. Push everything in the pan into a tight pancake and cook covered for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, then place a plate over the mouth of the pan. Flip everything so that the crusty bottom side of the rice cake is on top. Top with more kimchi and garnish with toasted sesame seeds and an egg, if you prefer.